Model Solar Car Motors

Entries in the Tasmanian event and national finals have no cost limit. It may therefore come as no great surprise that teams will aim to seek out the very best motor for their model solar car.

Inexpensive DC hobby motors and those recovered from various toys and gadgets like VCRs can be used to successfully power a model solar car but their performance is far from ideal. Even if you happen to stumble on one that’s well-matched with our solar panels, these have an iron core and are cheaply produced using sub optimal materials. Such motors will typically peak at 50-60% efficiency, which may be ok for many applications, but not if you’re looking to maximise model solar car performance. Using one of these motors basically means that half (and often even more) of your solar panel power is going to waste in the form of heat, vibration and noise.

Top model solar cars are instead powered by a special type of high efficiency coreless brushed DC motor. This coreless architecture removes the need for an iron core and its associated hysteresis and eddy current losses. If better materials such as rare earth magnets and precious metal brushes are also used then these motors can now reach maximum efficiencies of close to 90%.

It’s true that some brushless DC motors, similar to those seen in many RC vehicles and drones, can theoretically be a little more efficient since there’s no brush-commutator friction. These motors however tend to reach such figures when a lot more power is involved (ie hundreds or even thousands of Watts). We’re yet to see someone find a competitive option to use in the solar challenge but that’s not to say that one doesn’t now exist with more and more such products hitting the market every year. Please note that using such a motor will also require additional control circuitry since the commutation now needs to be carried out electronically.

Three manufacturers of high quality coreless DC motors are listed below.

These motors are typically designed for use in the medical, automation and aviation industries. They are also readily used in space exploration and feature prominently throughout satellites and interplanetary vehicles. NASA uses dozens of Maxon motors on their Mars Rovers.

All top car teams are now using the Faulhaber 2232 006SR 6V motor. This motor was first released back in 2005 and every winning entry has since used this motor. It is still without a doubt the TMSC’s recommended motor of choice and is ideally matched with a single Scorpio SOLAR26 solar panel. Its dimensions are very similar to the previously used 2233 4.5V from the late 90’s and early 2000’s but comes upgraded with rare earth magnets and a lower armature resistance that improve motor efficiency during the early stages of a solar car race.

Perhaps one other motor worth considering is the Maxon 118740 4.5V. This motor is however over twice the weight and cost of the Faulhaber and has yet to prove itself on a winning entry. Dynamometer tests carried out by a member of the Victorian committee have shown it to be slightly more efficient in some conditions but any possible racing advantage will almost certainly be lost due to the extra weight of the motor.

If datasheets are anything to go by then Portescap’s Athlonix 22N78 319P 6V would also be a contender. Specifications for this motor are very impressive and suggest that it could be better than the 2232 but initial dynamometer testing has seen its real world performance fall well short of what was expected. Perhaps there was something wrong with the particular motor that was tested so consider this option at your own risk. We’re yet to see the motor feature on a car at an event and its smaller 1.5mm drive shaft is a mismatch for pinion gears normally used with the 2232.

The datasheets of these three motors have been singled out below for easy download. A full list of the Faulhaber, Maxon and Portescap range can be viewed on their websites.

Faulhaber 2232 6V

Maxon RE 25 118740 4.5V

Portescap 22N78 319P 6V

Not only the winners but every single national finalist at the last ten (10) Australian-International Model Solar Car Challenges has used the Faulhaber 2232 6V motor. Prior to that the odd cars out typically used the aforementioned Maxon 118740 but none progressed beyond the quarter final stage. The image below shows the black 2232 with a few older motors alongside.

(L-R: Faulhaber 2233 4.5V, Faulhaber 2232 6V, Maxon 220404 9V, Maxon 221011 9V)

Here, the 221011 pictured to the very right was used by the winning Tasmanian team (and third place) at the 2005 national event (the 221024 through-shaft version with identical performance was actually used). Like the Faulhaber 2233, this motor is now considered to be inferior to the 2232.

There is also a Maxon 220404 9V motor shown which actually boasts a maximum efficiency that’s 1% higher than the 2232 under the right conditions. You won’t get to this peak when paired with a 5.5W 7V solar panel but it might be possible in 2025 if you choose to select a higher voltage panel.

Fauhaber 2232 motors can be purchased from Scorpio Technology and this is the recommended supplier in most cases. They are listed in their 2025 solar catalogue for $138.64. They’re an expensive necessity but can then be reused for many years of competition if you take care of them. As an example, some of our top-performing demonstration cars are still using motors dating back to 2006.   

Pending sufficient participant interest the TMSC have sometimes made bulk motor orders straight from Germany. Doing this can see costs drop to around $80-$90 each. Enough sponsor or government funding would ideally allow new motors to be distributed out to schools at no cost but this has not been possible in 2025. The TMSC also stocks a small number of spare Faulhabers that we sometimes lend out to teams struggling to source their own for the competition.

Motor Characteristics and Some Quick Calculations

Most solar car teams will simply purchase and use a 2232 6V motor without giving it much thought. All the top cars have been using it for many years so why go with anything else, right? Not many students, teachers or parent mentors will however go the lengths of understanding why they’re actually using this specific motor and what makes it so good. In this next section we’ll cover a few of the basics.
 
Motors are designed for many different applications and each particular model will have its own set of characteristics. Its these characteristics that need to be looked at to determine whether it’s going to be any good for a model solar car. Such information can be found in the motor datasheet which engineers then use to select the most suitable model for their intended application. 
 
It’s probably not even worth considering a motor for your model solar car if it doesn’t come with a detailed datasheet. You also need to be careful that the figures being stated are accurate. Less creditable manufacturers sometimes give values that make their motors appear much better than they actually are in reality.   
 
Top motor manufacturers like Faulhaber and Maxon have very reliable documentation for all their products but what do all those values really mean? What makes the 2232 6V motor so good for a model solar car? It essentially comes down how the heat and frictional losses balance out when paired with a Scorpio solar panel, but let’s take a brief look at a few of the key parameters in its datasheet below.
 
Firstly, don’t get too caught up on the 6V Nominal voltage. If you have a limited power source like with our 5.5W solar panels then you can run the motor on more (or less) voltage no problem. We’re ok here since we’re not driving the motor with a power supply or battery pack which are capable of delivering much more power than our event solar panels. 

It’s instead maybe better to keep a bit of an eye on the Output power or Maximum Continuous Current (not shown here). 11W is well above our measly 5.5W solar panel so we’re all good. These motors are often run for much longer than it takes to finish a solar car race solar car so you can probably push the limit on this a bit if you happened to find something smaller with a power rating of less than 5.5W.
 
So, these motors will happily operate at half or double the specified voltage as long as the speed doesn’t get so high as to fly apart internally. Most coreless motors will comfortably spin at over 20000rpm and you can do a quick calculation of the free running motor speed by simply using the Speed constant. This won’t be 100% accurate as it doesn’t factor in the frictional losses but should give a reasonable estimate, especially for motors with a low No-load current like the 2232 motor. For example, the 2232 6V has a speed constant of 1190rpm/V so if you wanted to keep it under 20000rpm then the voltage should be no greater than about 20000/1190 = 16.8V. In past years teams would race with their own solar panels and many chose voltages in the 12-15V range.
 
The first key parameter to look at is the peak motor Efficiency. This gives you some idea of what the motor is capable of at first glance. If the efficiency is much under 85% then it’s probably not even worth pursuing for a model solar car as you’re going to be losing too much power. The 6V version of the 2232 has a maximum efficiency of 87% which is about as high as Faulhaber go. The Maxon 118740 also comes in at 87% while their 220404 can reach an even better 89%. Portescap’s Athlonix 22N78 319P goes even higher to 90% in their datasheet but our testing has shown otherwise.
 
The next step is to consider the Terminal resistance of the motor when coupled with the solar panel current and power. Let’s just say that the Scorpio panels we use have a maximum power of 5.6W with a voltage of 7V and current of 0.8A. The datasheet says the 2232 6V version has a terminal resistance of 0.81Ω. Using Ohm’s Law P = I2R this is going to result in a power loss of 0.82 x 0.81 = 0.52W (lost as heat in the copper windings). For the frictional losses we know that the No load current is 35mA at the No load speed of 7100rpm so using P = VI gives us 6V x 0.035A = 0.21W. Ours will be marginally higher due to spinning slightly faster (7V panel instead of 6V) but we’ll just quickly use this figure here to make things easy. This then brings the total motor efficiency to approx [5.6W – (0.52W + 0.21W) ] / 5.6 x 100 = 87% (as per datasheet).
What about the Maxon 220405 that’s supposed to have a maximum efficiency of 89%? This motor has a terminal resistance of 3.36Ω so using Ohm’s Law again we get a power loss 0.82 x 3.36 = 2.15W. This comes to 2.15 / 5.6 x 100 = 38% and would take the motor efficiency down to 100 – 38 = 62% and we haven’t even added on the frictional losses yet. So what gives? Well, it really comes down a panel-motor combination and balance between  the winding and frictional lossesYou’d instead need a higher voltage panel with less amps to work better with the 220404. For example, if you instead had a 5.6W panel that was double the voltage  and half the current (ie 14V and 0.4A) then things would already be looking much better. Here, the heat loss would be reduced to 0.42 x 3.36 = 0.54W and this motor’s no load current at 15V is 14mA. That’s pretty close to our 14V panel so the frictional losses are going to be around 15V x 0.014A = 0.21W. This then brings the total motor efficiency to approx [5.6W – (0.54W + 0.21W) ] / 5.6 x 100 = 86.6%. Another couple of volts higher and you might get pretty close to that 89% after all.

But all of this only applies if you can actually get your car gearing to run the motor at its peak efficiency. If you get it wrong then you’re going to be way down but that’s for us to cover in another section.